titleNOTE 4
/titlecategory1/categoryNOTE 4.–From Baudas, or Baldac, i.e. Baghdad, certain of these rich silk
and gold brocades were called _Baldachini_, or in English _Baudekins_.
From their use in the state canopies and umbrellas of Italian dignitaries,
the word _Baldacchino_ has come to mean a canopy, even when architectural.
[_Baldekino, baldacchino_, was at first entirely made of silk, but
afterwards silk was mixed (_sericum mixtum_) with cotton or thread. When
Hulaku conquered Baghdad part of the tribute was to be paid with that kind
of stuff. Later on, says Heyd (II. p. 697), it was also manufactured in
the province of Ahwaz, at Damas and at Cyprus; it was carried as far as
France and England. Among the articles sent from Baghdad to Okkodai Khan,
mentioned in the _Yan chao pi shi_ (made in the 14th century), quoted by
Bretschneider (_Med. Res._ II. p. 124), we note: _Nakhut_ (a kind of gold
brocade), _Nachidut_ (a silk stuff interwoven with gold), _Dardas_ (a
stuff embroidered in gold). Bretschneider (p. 125) adds: With respect to
_nakhut_ and _nachidut_, I may observe that these words represent the
Mongol plural form of _nakh_ and _nachetti_…. I may finally mention that
in the _Yan shi_, ch. lxxviii. (on official dresses), a stuff, _na-shi-
shi_, is repeatedly named, and the term is explained there by _kin kin_
(gold brocade).–H. C.] The stuffs called _Nasich_ and _Nac_ are again
mentioned by our traveller below (ch. lix.). We only know that they were
of silk and gold, as he implies here, and as Ibn Batuta tells us, who
mentions _Nakh_ several times and _Nasj_ once. The latter is also
mentioned by Rubruquis (_Nasic_) as a present made to him at the Kaans
court. And Pegolotti speaks of both _nacchi_ and _nacchetti_ of silk and
gold, the latter apparently answering to _Nasich_. _Nac, Nacques, Nachiz,
Nacz, Nass_, appear in accounts and inventories of the 14th century,
French and English. (See _Dictionnaire des Tissus_, II. 199, and _Douet d
Arcq, Comptes de lArgenterie des Rois de France_, etc., 334.) We find no
mention of _Nakh_ or _Nasj_ among the stuffs detailed in the _An
Akbari_, so they must have been obsolete in the 16th century. [Cf. Heyd,
_Com. du Levant_, II. p. 698; _Nacco_, nachetto, comes from the Arabic
_nakh_ (_nekh_); _nassit_ (_nasith_) from the Arabic _ncidj_.–H. C.]
_Quermesis_ or Cramoisy derived its name from the Kermes insect (Ar.
_Kirmiz_) found on _Quercus coccifera_, now supplanted by cochineal. The
stuff so called is believed to have been originally a crimson velvet, but
apparently, like the mediaeval _Purpura_, if not identical with it, it
came to indicate a tissue rather than a colour. Thus Fr.-Michel quotes
velvet of vermeil cramoisy, of violet, and of blue cramoisy, and
_pourpres_ of a variety of colours, though he says he has never met with
_pourpre blanche_. I may, however, point to Plano Carpini (p. 755), who
describes the courtiers at Karakorum as clad in white _purpura_.
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